John Quincy Adams Digital Diary

29. At the two Stages from Koskova to Opolié, which I travelled between 1 and 5 O’Clock this morning there was still some depth of Snow, and the roads were worse than upon any other part of the road. I breakfasted at Jamburg, and crossed the river Luga there, about 9. The road to Narva from the river is in a straight line, and fine as a turnpike. The Post house at Narva is without the City which I therefore did not enter. Crossed the river Narova just below it— This Circumstance of the Post house’s being without the City I suppose is the Cause that two Versts more are charged for on the Stage which enters the City, from either side. But when the traveller does not enter the City, as was my case, they do not charge the additional Versts for both Stages. I crossed the river, just at Noon, under the salutation of 30 or 40 Guns, which on enquiry, I found were fired in rejoycing for the taking of Paris— At the Post-Office at Chudleigh the name was painted upon the door of the house. The place is grossly misspelt on the Post-map, and in the Books. I asked the Post-master how it came by its English name— He said that the Estate upon which it was built, had been purchased by the Duchess of Kingston, and that she had long resided at the Chateau, in view of the place where we stood, and which he pointed out to me— That the name of the place had been Fokenoff, which sounded hässlich in English; for which reason the Duchess had changed it for her own maiden-name— I met here a traveller; almost the only one I had seen upon the road; with the exception of two Couriers; one last Night, and one this morning; and both beyond Narva towards St: Petersburg— This traveller asked me if there was any late news from the Armies at St: Petersburg— I told him of the taking of Paris— He said he knew that; but shook his head, and said he feared the worst danger was yet to come.— I had neither time nor inclination to enquire into the motives of his fears, and wished him a pleasant Journey— The same Post-master at Chudleigh gave me, and charged me for six horses instead of four, which from St: Petersburg to that place had been sufficient for me. Several of the preceding Starosts had indeed spoken of six horses, but Mrs Colombi had told me her husband never had travelled in it with more than four, and I knew not that more than four were required by the ordinances. This Post-Master had the printed Ordinances suspended at the Wall of the room where I waited for the change of the horses— They were dated in 1801. 1808 and 1812. the last at Willna— It regulates the price to be paid for the horses; at 5 Copeeks for each horse per Versts—in this and the neighbouring Governments. It had been previously only 3 Copeeks per Verst; and before the paper Currency only two. The Ordinance of 1808 prescribed the number of horses to be taken and charged for every sort of Carriage from two horses to ten— The number for each kind of vehicle is increased by one or two, at the two Seasons of the Year when the roads are broken up— Thus the two seated Coach; with trunks, and two or three Persons, takes four horses from 15 December to 15 March, and from 15 May to 15 September— During the rest of the year the same Carriage and burden must take six horses. My Carriage is of this description, and in the heavy parts of the road really needed the six horses— The breed of these horses is peculiar to the Country. They are very small; very wretched in appearance, and very weak; which last quality must be owing to their bad keeping— For they are hardy—they endure the extremities of the Cold as if it was their natural temperature, and they are fleet— The price charged for horses is lower than in any other Country in Europe. And they exact much more from travellers who have not the Padorojna for Courier horses. It has not even been increased in proportion to the depretiation of the Paper; for two Copeeks in silver are equal to eight of Copper or Paper.— We arrived at Wargel between 10 and 11 in the Evening.— The weather had changed and it began to Snow. I determined therefore to stop for the Night, and had my bed made in a room which they allowed me at the Post-house.